Having two huge dogs obviously raises our monthly budget for groceries. When Denali was eating 100% raw and still growing like a weed, I am ashamed to admit his budget far outstripped mine. However, we have tried to find a nice medium by giving him some raw food and keeping the rest as dry kibble. It is far from perfect, but it is much better for our pocket books, and Denali doesn't seem to mind!
In the following posts, I will examine several dog food brands, sharing their protein percentages, ingredients, and price/ pound to illustrate how in Casa DuoDane choose a food.
Spoiler Alert: We feed Denali and Acadia Orijen dry kibble (Denali eats all of the adult varieties) and Acadia is still on large breed puppy for the time being. We supplement with 1 lb. raw food for Denali in the morning, and Acadia gets 1/4 lb (as she grows she will get more and more). But we try to keep it to roughly 30% of their diet.
In a given month, we spend roughly $200- $250 on food for the both of them. Keep in mind that Acadia is just a little puppy, so over time it will undoubtedly be more, but for one dane it was about $150. That is four to five bags of raw dog food (24-30 lbs) and one to two 30 lb. bags of grain-free dog food.
Friday, February 4, 2011
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Great Online Training Resources
Here are some of my favorite sites and blogs that I have been referred to by dog trainers:
ABRI: Animal Behavior Resources Institute
This is a great site with a ton of videos and articles free for download and viewing. It features some of the best dog trainers and behaviorists, like Patricia McConnell (my favorite), Jean Donaldson, and Ian Dunbar. Click on education, and you can choose from podcasts, articles, and videos. It has lots of articles on reactive dogs, and aggression in dogs, inculding several great videos by Dr. John Ciribassi, a vet and animal behaviorist.
San Francisco SPCA Library:
This is another great site that has free downloads of articles relating to all sorts of problems, ranging from potty-breaking to aggression, to even how to stuff a Kong.
Dog Star Daily Digital Dog Training Textbook:
This is another awesome site that I got a lot of good information from when Denali was a puppy. They have free downloads of Dr. Ian Dunbar's Before You Get a Puppy and After You Get A Puppy. It also features videos on each of the topics covered in the article.
ABRI: Animal Behavior Resources Institute
This is a great site with a ton of videos and articles free for download and viewing. It features some of the best dog trainers and behaviorists, like Patricia McConnell (my favorite), Jean Donaldson, and Ian Dunbar. Click on education, and you can choose from podcasts, articles, and videos. It has lots of articles on reactive dogs, and aggression in dogs, inculding several great videos by Dr. John Ciribassi, a vet and animal behaviorist.
San Francisco SPCA Library:
This is another great site that has free downloads of articles relating to all sorts of problems, ranging from potty-breaking to aggression, to even how to stuff a Kong.
Dog Star Daily Digital Dog Training Textbook:
This is another awesome site that I got a lot of good information from when Denali was a puppy. They have free downloads of Dr. Ian Dunbar's Before You Get a Puppy and After You Get A Puppy. It also features videos on each of the topics covered in the article.
Grab an Antler!
All dogs need to exercise their jaw muscles, and if you give a puppy a proper object to chew, he'll be less likely to chew on other things (like coffee table legs) that he's not.
Because rawhide is not entirely digestible, I don't recommend giving your dog it. However, if you MUST and are completely dead-set on it, make sure that the rawhides are from the USA not China. A good company is Dizzy Dogg or Wholesome Hide Rawhide (surprisingly available at Trader Joe's). In addition to being indigestible, most are laden with tons of chemicals, and some are dyed colors. See this article about rawhide in the Whole Dog Journal. Again, I do not advocate giving your dog rawhide, however you should have all the facts, and as always make the choice yourself.
A much better option, in my opinion, is deer antlers. They last much longer, are totally digestible, and don't smell! Even with Denali's super jaws, our antlers would last at least 4 weeks, sometimes up to 9 weeks. Like anything else, when the antler gets too small and is a risk of swallowing, take the antler away. We get ours from Sirius Cooks, who use Lucky Buck Antler. They are naturally shed from deers, and people find them--never harvested! Antlers are made out of keratin, which is the same protein that comprises our hair. They are a bit expensive at first, but think if you can divide the cost by how many weeks it lasts vs. that bully stick!
Because rawhide is not entirely digestible, I don't recommend giving your dog it. However, if you MUST and are completely dead-set on it, make sure that the rawhides are from the USA not China. A good company is Dizzy Dogg or Wholesome Hide Rawhide (surprisingly available at Trader Joe's). In addition to being indigestible, most are laden with tons of chemicals, and some are dyed colors. See this article about rawhide in the Whole Dog Journal. Again, I do not advocate giving your dog rawhide, however you should have all the facts, and as always make the choice yourself.
A much better option, in my opinion, is deer antlers. They last much longer, are totally digestible, and don't smell! Even with Denali's super jaws, our antlers would last at least 4 weeks, sometimes up to 9 weeks. Like anything else, when the antler gets too small and is a risk of swallowing, take the antler away. We get ours from Sirius Cooks, who use Lucky Buck Antler. They are naturally shed from deers, and people find them--never harvested! Antlers are made out of keratin, which is the same protein that comprises our hair. They are a bit expensive at first, but think if you can divide the cost by how many weeks it lasts vs. that bully stick!
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Puppy Shots
Our first year with Denali was a bit rough in the health arena. Between pneumonia and constant diarrhea, we were in the vet a lot. I felt clueless and helpless, so I listened to anything that I thought would keep him safe and healthy. I didn't want to take any risks, so I vaccinated him against everything the vet recommended. Unfortunately, I had left my commonsense and scientific questioning behind. I naturally assumed that the vaccines the vet was recommending had been proven to be effective and were necessary. When we switched to a holistic vet, her first reaction was "Holy Cow! I've never seen such an over-vaccinated dog!" She explained that Denali's immune system was probably compromised with the onslaught of vaccines.
Below I will explain the options, telling you what I would do if I could do it over again.
1.) DHPP: Every dog needs DHPP. This series is also called distemper/ parvo shots. Parvo is a very serious disease and is fatal for puppies. A friend of ours lost a puppy to parvo because the dog had been exposed to parvo before it was completely vaccinated. To add insult to injury, they had to wait to get another puppy for 6 months because the virus can be active still and their apartment was infected. Luckily, it is highly preventable if you get the puppy series of vaccines. So just be prudent and be mindful of where your baby pup goes. Dr. Jean Dodds, a leader in judicious vaccines, and renowned immunologist recommends administering DHPP at these times: 9-10 weeks, 14 weeks, 16-18 weeks. At 1 year, the dog should have a blood titer taken to test for antibodies. If the dog is still protected (ample antibodies present) then the dog is protected for DHPP and doesn't need another vaccination.
2.) Rabies: Many, if not all, states require a rabies shot. Dr. Jean Dodds recommends rabies at 20 weeks or older, when required by law. The dog will need a 1 yr rabies vaccine at 20 weeks, and then a 3 yr vaccine at 1 year.
3.) Bordatella: most doggy daycares, boarding facilities, and dog parks require bordatella, which is supposed to protect against "kennel cough." Give bordatella, if required, via nasal drops. If your dog does not go to doggy daycare, or kennels, then the dog probably doesn't need bordatella. See Dr. Ron Schultz's guidelines, see links below.
DO NOT GET:
1.) Giarrdia: Some vets may say that the giarrdia vaccine is neccessary to protect humans against the protozoa, giarrdia (which causes severe diarrhea). Unfortunately,the vaccine given to the dogs has not been proven to be effective in protecting the humans or the dog.
2.) Corona
3.) Lyme: Here in the midwest, especially in the Chicago area the risk of Lyme Disease is fairly low. If you take the dog to high risk areas, then obviously vaccinate the dog.
Here are some great resources about vaccine information:
Dr. Jean Dodd's vaccine recommendations
Dr. Schultz's recommendations
Dr. Barbara Royal, our vet's sheet on vaccines
Below I will explain the options, telling you what I would do if I could do it over again.
1.) DHPP: Every dog needs DHPP. This series is also called distemper/ parvo shots. Parvo is a very serious disease and is fatal for puppies. A friend of ours lost a puppy to parvo because the dog had been exposed to parvo before it was completely vaccinated. To add insult to injury, they had to wait to get another puppy for 6 months because the virus can be active still and their apartment was infected. Luckily, it is highly preventable if you get the puppy series of vaccines. So just be prudent and be mindful of where your baby pup goes. Dr. Jean Dodds, a leader in judicious vaccines, and renowned immunologist recommends administering DHPP at these times: 9-10 weeks, 14 weeks, 16-18 weeks. At 1 year, the dog should have a blood titer taken to test for antibodies. If the dog is still protected (ample antibodies present) then the dog is protected for DHPP and doesn't need another vaccination.
2.) Rabies: Many, if not all, states require a rabies shot. Dr. Jean Dodds recommends rabies at 20 weeks or older, when required by law. The dog will need a 1 yr rabies vaccine at 20 weeks, and then a 3 yr vaccine at 1 year.
3.) Bordatella: most doggy daycares, boarding facilities, and dog parks require bordatella, which is supposed to protect against "kennel cough." Give bordatella, if required, via nasal drops. If your dog does not go to doggy daycare, or kennels, then the dog probably doesn't need bordatella. See Dr. Ron Schultz's guidelines, see links below.
DO NOT GET:
1.) Giarrdia: Some vets may say that the giarrdia vaccine is neccessary to protect humans against the protozoa, giarrdia (which causes severe diarrhea). Unfortunately,the vaccine given to the dogs has not been proven to be effective in protecting the humans or the dog.
2.) Corona
3.) Lyme: Here in the midwest, especially in the Chicago area the risk of Lyme Disease is fairly low. If you take the dog to high risk areas, then obviously vaccinate the dog.
Here are some great resources about vaccine information:
Dr. Jean Dodd's vaccine recommendations
Dr. Schultz's recommendations
Dr. Barbara Royal, our vet's sheet on vaccines
Monday, August 30, 2010
Plush but Durable Dog Toys
Denali, I think like most dogs really enjoys the feeling of plush toys and sinking his teeth into something soft. He also loves whipping the toy around his head, a la a wild dog breaking the prey's neck. And of course, his favorite part is the gutting. He is never prouder of himself than after successfully gutting a toy.
Having a Great Dane puppy demands a new level of durability not found in most toys. It may be lab proof, but it says nothing about a great dane puppy being able to fit the whole toy in his mouth. So, we quickly got better at selecting durable toys. Our two favorite brands are Tuff Toys and Huggle Hounds. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
First Tuff Toys:
These toys are the gold standard of durability. They say they have "Tuff Technology" but I don't know what that means. What I do know is that the stitching is very good, although not indestructible, and their Tuff Scale is pretty good. Basically the more complicated the toy is (with more grooves and ridges) the more vulnerable it is. Denali's favorite was the shark, because he first tore out its teeth. The most durable toy I believe might be their doughnut ring: with no openings, there are fewer opportunities for ripping the toy to shreds.
Huggle Hounds:
We found Huggle Hounds a little later in Denali's development (around 8 months). He loved the soft exterior material (corduroy?) and the plushness. The stitching on these is also very good, and the toys definitely stayed intact for much longer than most plush ones. I also love how cute they are! We had the skunk, rabbit, moose, and raccoon. Their long toys are also great. Denali and Murray (a dog we dogsit) love whipping it around the house, and it seems to be less a chew toy than a whipping toy. These have also showed good resilience.
Puppy Notes: The Importance of Toys
We got through Denali's puppyhood relatively unscathed. He only destroyed two beds (gutting them) and chewed the edge of a bookshelf--but that was later after we had thought he was ready to be out of the crate (obviously we were wrong.) We think this is not only from crate training him, and keeping an eye on him at all times (much like a toddler), but because he has always had a full basket of toys. He probably has about 15 toys in his basket. If you give the dog enough proper things to chew they won't be as tempted to chew your furniture and other belongings. Also, we tried to praise him whenever he was playing with his toys. Finally, whenever he wasn't chewing on an appropriate object, (I could always tell because the apartment was eerily quiet), I would grab an appropriate toy, run into the room, clap loudly (to jar his concentration, say no, and replace it with one of his toys.) Usually, I would wait until he started playing with the new toy and then praise him. When you tell a dog what they can't do, it is important to give them things they can.
Having a Great Dane puppy demands a new level of durability not found in most toys. It may be lab proof, but it says nothing about a great dane puppy being able to fit the whole toy in his mouth. So, we quickly got better at selecting durable toys. Our two favorite brands are Tuff Toys and Huggle Hounds. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
First Tuff Toys:
These toys are the gold standard of durability. They say they have "Tuff Technology" but I don't know what that means. What I do know is that the stitching is very good, although not indestructible, and their Tuff Scale is pretty good. Basically the more complicated the toy is (with more grooves and ridges) the more vulnerable it is. Denali's favorite was the shark, because he first tore out its teeth. The most durable toy I believe might be their doughnut ring: with no openings, there are fewer opportunities for ripping the toy to shreds.
Huggle Hounds:
We found Huggle Hounds a little later in Denali's development (around 8 months). He loved the soft exterior material (corduroy?) and the plushness. The stitching on these is also very good, and the toys definitely stayed intact for much longer than most plush ones. I also love how cute they are! We had the skunk, rabbit, moose, and raccoon. Their long toys are also great. Denali and Murray (a dog we dogsit) love whipping it around the house, and it seems to be less a chew toy than a whipping toy. These have also showed good resilience.
Puppy Notes: The Importance of Toys
We got through Denali's puppyhood relatively unscathed. He only destroyed two beds (gutting them) and chewed the edge of a bookshelf--but that was later after we had thought he was ready to be out of the crate (obviously we were wrong.) We think this is not only from crate training him, and keeping an eye on him at all times (much like a toddler), but because he has always had a full basket of toys. He probably has about 15 toys in his basket. If you give the dog enough proper things to chew they won't be as tempted to chew your furniture and other belongings. Also, we tried to praise him whenever he was playing with his toys. Finally, whenever he wasn't chewing on an appropriate object, (I could always tell because the apartment was eerily quiet), I would grab an appropriate toy, run into the room, clap loudly (to jar his concentration, say no, and replace it with one of his toys.) Usually, I would wait until he started playing with the new toy and then praise him. When you tell a dog what they can't do, it is important to give them things they can.
My Pthalate,, PVC and BPA-Free Puppy
Because I didn't know about these toxins while Denali was a puppy, I didn't avoid most of the toys I now do. Without being assured about the quality of the toy and the materials, I am hesitant to give a young puppy (or even Denali) something like that to chew on and possibly destroy and ingest. Thus, the importance for resilient and healthy toys. Luckily, there are two such big companies, and many other smaller ones specializing in eco-friendly, safe dog toys. I purchased ours from our local pet food store, Sirius Cooks, in Oak Park, IL. But, I've also purchased several from Olive Green Dog and have been super impressed with their service!
Remember, dogs are just as susceptible, if not more, than human children to ingesting the toxins from their toys. I mean, when was the last time a four month old baby successfully destructed a toy with their teeth?
Things to Look for:
-PVC Free: PVC toys often contain lead, cadmium, and organotins. Furthermore, PVC as a gas is a carcinogen.
-BPA-free: BPA is just one of the latest bad guys
-clear plastic- transparent plastic is not the most stable.
Good Companies:
As I have mentioned before, I love West Paw Design and all of their toys. After learning about the dangers of PVC and pthalates, I purged all of Denali's questionable plastic toys (especially the pliable ones) and replaced them with a new set of all of West Paw's. Denali couldn't be happier. His favorite is definitely the Bumi, because of how it whips around.
Planet Dog is also a great company. It also has very high standards, and is very conscientious. Many of their toys are made of recycled content. Denali loved his pink and blue double planet toy, although it was never big enough for him to stuff things in and eat. I'm not sure I would leave it with a puppy again, however after finding some of the continents missing. Luckily, Denali usually spits out the pieces of the toys he chews up or they come out the other end.
The big picture here for me is to avoid what bad things I can for Denali (and any future dogs) in the hopes of extending their short but meaningful lives. If I wouldn't want my kid to play with it, I don't want him to.
Remember, dogs are just as susceptible, if not more, than human children to ingesting the toxins from their toys. I mean, when was the last time a four month old baby successfully destructed a toy with their teeth?
Things to Look for:
-PVC Free: PVC toys often contain lead, cadmium, and organotins. Furthermore, PVC as a gas is a carcinogen.
-BPA-free: BPA is just one of the latest bad guys
-clear plastic- transparent plastic is not the most stable.
Good Companies:
As I have mentioned before, I love West Paw Design and all of their toys. After learning about the dangers of PVC and pthalates, I purged all of Denali's questionable plastic toys (especially the pliable ones) and replaced them with a new set of all of West Paw's. Denali couldn't be happier. His favorite is definitely the Bumi, because of how it whips around.
Planet Dog is also a great company. It also has very high standards, and is very conscientious. Many of their toys are made of recycled content. Denali loved his pink and blue double planet toy, although it was never big enough for him to stuff things in and eat. I'm not sure I would leave it with a puppy again, however after finding some of the continents missing. Luckily, Denali usually spits out the pieces of the toys he chews up or they come out the other end.
The big picture here for me is to avoid what bad things I can for Denali (and any future dogs) in the hopes of extending their short but meaningful lives. If I wouldn't want my kid to play with it, I don't want him to.
Crate Love
Denali loves his crate, and while we always wanted that, we secretly hoped that we would be able to get rid of the ugly thing once he stopped using it. We've finally come to the realization that we will probably always have it in our bedroom (where it always has been), but have decided to try to make our own. We'll be sure to fill you in on how that is going.
But, here are the crates that we are either using or have used in the past: Midwest Canine Camper (our favorite for comfiness) and Midwest iCrate.
We started off with the Midwest's XXL crate because it was the largest crate on the market. We didn't know what kind of chewer Denali would be, so we wanted to make sure to get something super strong. Luckily, I found it on Craigslist for $100 off what it would have cost new. It was great, but it wasn't very comfy for Denali. The metal sides didn't afford him much privacy or a den-like feeling (which is the goal of a crate), so we improvised and draped our handy $7 Ikea fleece blankets over the sides and top creating a blue cave. It worked great, and Denali loved the blankets. He actually turned into quite a decorator, see picture below! The only problem was that it was quite big, so we started it off at half the full size. We also wanted it in our bedroom so we could sleep together as a family (which I think is important for pack mentality). Also, then I could easily hear him in the middle of the night when he needed to go out. But, Denali would toss in his sleep or sometimes stage an all out romp fest about 2am and the wire sides would make quite a racket!
At the same time, we had bought a portable crate for Denali (one that folded flat), so we could have one in Michigan at my parent's beach house (Denali's favorite place in the world aside from the breeder's). When Denali outgrew his wire crate, and we were going to have to make the move to full size, we decided to give the portable crate a try in the house. It was much cozier, with soft sides that he could lean up against (and wouldn't make as much noise), and it was darker. Also, we figured we could just fold it flat if we needed the space suddenly. And so here we are today, still using the soft-sided crate.
Crate Psychology:
While not the most pleasing aesthetically (or good for our small apartment), we think that psychologically it is very important for Denali to feel like he has what he thinks of his own bedroom. He knows it is a safe place, and anytime I am trying to clean his ears or give him a shower, he runs into his crate, which makes me think that he knows it is a safe place. Dogs are den animals and want a cozy,dark place to go to. By putting ours in our bedroom, which is right off the living room, and within eye-view of the door, Denali has a safe place to go to if he is afraid, while still being apprised of the situation.
We did crate train Denali, meaning that when I wasn't home, Denali would get his favorite (most indestructible toys) and a treat to eat (a peanut butter and kibble stuffed kong) to eat on in my absence. It kept him safe from ingesting bad things and kept our apartment intact. While at first he didn't like it, and he had some pretty severe separation anxiety (our neighbors told us he would howl for hours on end, taking a half an hour break), he was always safe from harm. The only real danger of the crate was one day (about a week after we switched from the wire crate to the soft crate), Denali was roughhousing a bit too vigorously and flipped his crate! Luckily, our downstairs neighbor came up and "rescued him". We think this is just one of the many reasons Denali LOVES Jen. Denali was a bit shaken up but he was fine within a couple hours, and he learned not to flip his crate.
Food for thought:
We chose not to feed Denali in his crate, but instead to give him treats. I didn't want the water in his crate to prevent spills, and also be able to monitor how much he was drinking--outside of the crate he always has fresh water. He was never in his crate for more than 3 hours at a time, and then my boyfriend's wonderful mother, would come and walk/ hang out with Denali for a half-hour. We did think it was important though, to give him tasty treats in his crate to associate good feelings with it. It's a choice each person should make for themselves, and this is just what we thought was best for us. Our current vet does not recommend peanut butter for dogs, so with the new puppy (hopefully, we'll get her this spring) we'll have to figure out something else. Also, after learning about pthalates in pliable plastics (like dog toys), I am hesitant to give my puppy a toy like that. Instead, I will just stuff one of West Paw's pthalate free, recycled rubber toys instead. Or if you really want to go far out get your dog a sheep trachea and stuff it with yummy goodies, like green tripe. Now for cleanliness' sake, we chose to skip this after trying it for a week and having to sanitize nonstop. But the cartilage in the trachea is really good for the dog, so maybe its a good thing for him to eat in the kitchen, where I can easily wipe up his mess. We'll have to cross that bridge in the future. But thank goodness our teething days are gone!
But, here are the crates that we are either using or have used in the past: Midwest Canine Camper (our favorite for comfiness) and Midwest iCrate.
We started off with the Midwest's XXL crate because it was the largest crate on the market. We didn't know what kind of chewer Denali would be, so we wanted to make sure to get something super strong. Luckily, I found it on Craigslist for $100 off what it would have cost new. It was great, but it wasn't very comfy for Denali. The metal sides didn't afford him much privacy or a den-like feeling (which is the goal of a crate), so we improvised and draped our handy $7 Ikea fleece blankets over the sides and top creating a blue cave. It worked great, and Denali loved the blankets. He actually turned into quite a decorator, see picture below! The only problem was that it was quite big, so we started it off at half the full size. We also wanted it in our bedroom so we could sleep together as a family (which I think is important for pack mentality). Also, then I could easily hear him in the middle of the night when he needed to go out. But, Denali would toss in his sleep or sometimes stage an all out romp fest about 2am and the wire sides would make quite a racket!
At the same time, we had bought a portable crate for Denali (one that folded flat), so we could have one in Michigan at my parent's beach house (Denali's favorite place in the world aside from the breeder's). When Denali outgrew his wire crate, and we were going to have to make the move to full size, we decided to give the portable crate a try in the house. It was much cozier, with soft sides that he could lean up against (and wouldn't make as much noise), and it was darker. Also, we figured we could just fold it flat if we needed the space suddenly. And so here we are today, still using the soft-sided crate.
Crate Psychology:
While not the most pleasing aesthetically (or good for our small apartment), we think that psychologically it is very important for Denali to feel like he has what he thinks of his own bedroom. He knows it is a safe place, and anytime I am trying to clean his ears or give him a shower, he runs into his crate, which makes me think that he knows it is a safe place. Dogs are den animals and want a cozy,dark place to go to. By putting ours in our bedroom, which is right off the living room, and within eye-view of the door, Denali has a safe place to go to if he is afraid, while still being apprised of the situation.
We did crate train Denali, meaning that when I wasn't home, Denali would get his favorite (most indestructible toys) and a treat to eat (a peanut butter and kibble stuffed kong) to eat on in my absence. It kept him safe from ingesting bad things and kept our apartment intact. While at first he didn't like it, and he had some pretty severe separation anxiety (our neighbors told us he would howl for hours on end, taking a half an hour break), he was always safe from harm. The only real danger of the crate was one day (about a week after we switched from the wire crate to the soft crate), Denali was roughhousing a bit too vigorously and flipped his crate! Luckily, our downstairs neighbor came up and "rescued him". We think this is just one of the many reasons Denali LOVES Jen. Denali was a bit shaken up but he was fine within a couple hours, and he learned not to flip his crate.
Food for thought:
We chose not to feed Denali in his crate, but instead to give him treats. I didn't want the water in his crate to prevent spills, and also be able to monitor how much he was drinking--outside of the crate he always has fresh water. He was never in his crate for more than 3 hours at a time, and then my boyfriend's wonderful mother, would come and walk/ hang out with Denali for a half-hour. We did think it was important though, to give him tasty treats in his crate to associate good feelings with it. It's a choice each person should make for themselves, and this is just what we thought was best for us. Our current vet does not recommend peanut butter for dogs, so with the new puppy (hopefully, we'll get her this spring) we'll have to figure out something else. Also, after learning about pthalates in pliable plastics (like dog toys), I am hesitant to give my puppy a toy like that. Instead, I will just stuff one of West Paw's pthalate free, recycled rubber toys instead. Or if you really want to go far out get your dog a sheep trachea and stuff it with yummy goodies, like green tripe. Now for cleanliness' sake, we chose to skip this after trying it for a week and having to sanitize nonstop. But the cartilage in the trachea is really good for the dog, so maybe its a good thing for him to eat in the kitchen, where I can easily wipe up his mess. We'll have to cross that bridge in the future. But thank goodness our teething days are gone!
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