Here are some of my favorite sites and blogs that I have been referred to by dog trainers:
ABRI: Animal Behavior Resources Institute
This is a great site with a ton of videos and articles free for download and viewing. It features some of the best dog trainers and behaviorists, like Patricia McConnell (my favorite), Jean Donaldson, and Ian Dunbar. Click on education, and you can choose from podcasts, articles, and videos. It has lots of articles on reactive dogs, and aggression in dogs, inculding several great videos by Dr. John Ciribassi, a vet and animal behaviorist.
San Francisco SPCA Library:
This is another great site that has free downloads of articles relating to all sorts of problems, ranging from potty-breaking to aggression, to even how to stuff a Kong.
Dog Star Daily Digital Dog Training Textbook:
This is another awesome site that I got a lot of good information from when Denali was a puppy. They have free downloads of Dr. Ian Dunbar's Before You Get a Puppy and After You Get A Puppy. It also features videos on each of the topics covered in the article.
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Grab an Antler!
All dogs need to exercise their jaw muscles, and if you give a puppy a proper object to chew, he'll be less likely to chew on other things (like coffee table legs) that he's not.
Because rawhide is not entirely digestible, I don't recommend giving your dog it. However, if you MUST and are completely dead-set on it, make sure that the rawhides are from the USA not China. A good company is Dizzy Dogg or Wholesome Hide Rawhide (surprisingly available at Trader Joe's). In addition to being indigestible, most are laden with tons of chemicals, and some are dyed colors. See this article about rawhide in the Whole Dog Journal. Again, I do not advocate giving your dog rawhide, however you should have all the facts, and as always make the choice yourself.
A much better option, in my opinion, is deer antlers. They last much longer, are totally digestible, and don't smell! Even with Denali's super jaws, our antlers would last at least 4 weeks, sometimes up to 9 weeks. Like anything else, when the antler gets too small and is a risk of swallowing, take the antler away. We get ours from Sirius Cooks, who use Lucky Buck Antler. They are naturally shed from deers, and people find them--never harvested! Antlers are made out of keratin, which is the same protein that comprises our hair. They are a bit expensive at first, but think if you can divide the cost by how many weeks it lasts vs. that bully stick!
Because rawhide is not entirely digestible, I don't recommend giving your dog it. However, if you MUST and are completely dead-set on it, make sure that the rawhides are from the USA not China. A good company is Dizzy Dogg or Wholesome Hide Rawhide (surprisingly available at Trader Joe's). In addition to being indigestible, most are laden with tons of chemicals, and some are dyed colors. See this article about rawhide in the Whole Dog Journal. Again, I do not advocate giving your dog rawhide, however you should have all the facts, and as always make the choice yourself.
A much better option, in my opinion, is deer antlers. They last much longer, are totally digestible, and don't smell! Even with Denali's super jaws, our antlers would last at least 4 weeks, sometimes up to 9 weeks. Like anything else, when the antler gets too small and is a risk of swallowing, take the antler away. We get ours from Sirius Cooks, who use Lucky Buck Antler. They are naturally shed from deers, and people find them--never harvested! Antlers are made out of keratin, which is the same protein that comprises our hair. They are a bit expensive at first, but think if you can divide the cost by how many weeks it lasts vs. that bully stick!
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Puppy Shots
Our first year with Denali was a bit rough in the health arena. Between pneumonia and constant diarrhea, we were in the vet a lot. I felt clueless and helpless, so I listened to anything that I thought would keep him safe and healthy. I didn't want to take any risks, so I vaccinated him against everything the vet recommended. Unfortunately, I had left my commonsense and scientific questioning behind. I naturally assumed that the vaccines the vet was recommending had been proven to be effective and were necessary. When we switched to a holistic vet, her first reaction was "Holy Cow! I've never seen such an over-vaccinated dog!" She explained that Denali's immune system was probably compromised with the onslaught of vaccines.
Below I will explain the options, telling you what I would do if I could do it over again.
1.) DHPP: Every dog needs DHPP. This series is also called distemper/ parvo shots. Parvo is a very serious disease and is fatal for puppies. A friend of ours lost a puppy to parvo because the dog had been exposed to parvo before it was completely vaccinated. To add insult to injury, they had to wait to get another puppy for 6 months because the virus can be active still and their apartment was infected. Luckily, it is highly preventable if you get the puppy series of vaccines. So just be prudent and be mindful of where your baby pup goes. Dr. Jean Dodds, a leader in judicious vaccines, and renowned immunologist recommends administering DHPP at these times: 9-10 weeks, 14 weeks, 16-18 weeks. At 1 year, the dog should have a blood titer taken to test for antibodies. If the dog is still protected (ample antibodies present) then the dog is protected for DHPP and doesn't need another vaccination.
2.) Rabies: Many, if not all, states require a rabies shot. Dr. Jean Dodds recommends rabies at 20 weeks or older, when required by law. The dog will need a 1 yr rabies vaccine at 20 weeks, and then a 3 yr vaccine at 1 year.
3.) Bordatella: most doggy daycares, boarding facilities, and dog parks require bordatella, which is supposed to protect against "kennel cough." Give bordatella, if required, via nasal drops. If your dog does not go to doggy daycare, or kennels, then the dog probably doesn't need bordatella. See Dr. Ron Schultz's guidelines, see links below.
DO NOT GET:
1.) Giarrdia: Some vets may say that the giarrdia vaccine is neccessary to protect humans against the protozoa, giarrdia (which causes severe diarrhea). Unfortunately,the vaccine given to the dogs has not been proven to be effective in protecting the humans or the dog.
2.) Corona
3.) Lyme: Here in the midwest, especially in the Chicago area the risk of Lyme Disease is fairly low. If you take the dog to high risk areas, then obviously vaccinate the dog.
Here are some great resources about vaccine information:
Dr. Jean Dodd's vaccine recommendations
Dr. Schultz's recommendations
Dr. Barbara Royal, our vet's sheet on vaccines
Below I will explain the options, telling you what I would do if I could do it over again.
1.) DHPP: Every dog needs DHPP. This series is also called distemper/ parvo shots. Parvo is a very serious disease and is fatal for puppies. A friend of ours lost a puppy to parvo because the dog had been exposed to parvo before it was completely vaccinated. To add insult to injury, they had to wait to get another puppy for 6 months because the virus can be active still and their apartment was infected. Luckily, it is highly preventable if you get the puppy series of vaccines. So just be prudent and be mindful of where your baby pup goes. Dr. Jean Dodds, a leader in judicious vaccines, and renowned immunologist recommends administering DHPP at these times: 9-10 weeks, 14 weeks, 16-18 weeks. At 1 year, the dog should have a blood titer taken to test for antibodies. If the dog is still protected (ample antibodies present) then the dog is protected for DHPP and doesn't need another vaccination.
2.) Rabies: Many, if not all, states require a rabies shot. Dr. Jean Dodds recommends rabies at 20 weeks or older, when required by law. The dog will need a 1 yr rabies vaccine at 20 weeks, and then a 3 yr vaccine at 1 year.
3.) Bordatella: most doggy daycares, boarding facilities, and dog parks require bordatella, which is supposed to protect against "kennel cough." Give bordatella, if required, via nasal drops. If your dog does not go to doggy daycare, or kennels, then the dog probably doesn't need bordatella. See Dr. Ron Schultz's guidelines, see links below.
DO NOT GET:
1.) Giarrdia: Some vets may say that the giarrdia vaccine is neccessary to protect humans against the protozoa, giarrdia (which causes severe diarrhea). Unfortunately,the vaccine given to the dogs has not been proven to be effective in protecting the humans or the dog.
2.) Corona
3.) Lyme: Here in the midwest, especially in the Chicago area the risk of Lyme Disease is fairly low. If you take the dog to high risk areas, then obviously vaccinate the dog.
Here are some great resources about vaccine information:
Dr. Jean Dodd's vaccine recommendations
Dr. Schultz's recommendations
Dr. Barbara Royal, our vet's sheet on vaccines
Monday, August 30, 2010
Plush but Durable Dog Toys
Denali, I think like most dogs really enjoys the feeling of plush toys and sinking his teeth into something soft. He also loves whipping the toy around his head, a la a wild dog breaking the prey's neck. And of course, his favorite part is the gutting. He is never prouder of himself than after successfully gutting a toy.
Having a Great Dane puppy demands a new level of durability not found in most toys. It may be lab proof, but it says nothing about a great dane puppy being able to fit the whole toy in his mouth. So, we quickly got better at selecting durable toys. Our two favorite brands are Tuff Toys and Huggle Hounds. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
First Tuff Toys:
These toys are the gold standard of durability. They say they have "Tuff Technology" but I don't know what that means. What I do know is that the stitching is very good, although not indestructible, and their Tuff Scale is pretty good. Basically the more complicated the toy is (with more grooves and ridges) the more vulnerable it is. Denali's favorite was the shark, because he first tore out its teeth. The most durable toy I believe might be their doughnut ring: with no openings, there are fewer opportunities for ripping the toy to shreds.
Huggle Hounds:
We found Huggle Hounds a little later in Denali's development (around 8 months). He loved the soft exterior material (corduroy?) and the plushness. The stitching on these is also very good, and the toys definitely stayed intact for much longer than most plush ones. I also love how cute they are! We had the skunk, rabbit, moose, and raccoon. Their long toys are also great. Denali and Murray (a dog we dogsit) love whipping it around the house, and it seems to be less a chew toy than a whipping toy. These have also showed good resilience.
Puppy Notes: The Importance of Toys
We got through Denali's puppyhood relatively unscathed. He only destroyed two beds (gutting them) and chewed the edge of a bookshelf--but that was later after we had thought he was ready to be out of the crate (obviously we were wrong.) We think this is not only from crate training him, and keeping an eye on him at all times (much like a toddler), but because he has always had a full basket of toys. He probably has about 15 toys in his basket. If you give the dog enough proper things to chew they won't be as tempted to chew your furniture and other belongings. Also, we tried to praise him whenever he was playing with his toys. Finally, whenever he wasn't chewing on an appropriate object, (I could always tell because the apartment was eerily quiet), I would grab an appropriate toy, run into the room, clap loudly (to jar his concentration, say no, and replace it with one of his toys.) Usually, I would wait until he started playing with the new toy and then praise him. When you tell a dog what they can't do, it is important to give them things they can.
Having a Great Dane puppy demands a new level of durability not found in most toys. It may be lab proof, but it says nothing about a great dane puppy being able to fit the whole toy in his mouth. So, we quickly got better at selecting durable toys. Our two favorite brands are Tuff Toys and Huggle Hounds. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
First Tuff Toys:
These toys are the gold standard of durability. They say they have "Tuff Technology" but I don't know what that means. What I do know is that the stitching is very good, although not indestructible, and their Tuff Scale is pretty good. Basically the more complicated the toy is (with more grooves and ridges) the more vulnerable it is. Denali's favorite was the shark, because he first tore out its teeth. The most durable toy I believe might be their doughnut ring: with no openings, there are fewer opportunities for ripping the toy to shreds.
Huggle Hounds:
We found Huggle Hounds a little later in Denali's development (around 8 months). He loved the soft exterior material (corduroy?) and the plushness. The stitching on these is also very good, and the toys definitely stayed intact for much longer than most plush ones. I also love how cute they are! We had the skunk, rabbit, moose, and raccoon. Their long toys are also great. Denali and Murray (a dog we dogsit) love whipping it around the house, and it seems to be less a chew toy than a whipping toy. These have also showed good resilience.
Puppy Notes: The Importance of Toys
We got through Denali's puppyhood relatively unscathed. He only destroyed two beds (gutting them) and chewed the edge of a bookshelf--but that was later after we had thought he was ready to be out of the crate (obviously we were wrong.) We think this is not only from crate training him, and keeping an eye on him at all times (much like a toddler), but because he has always had a full basket of toys. He probably has about 15 toys in his basket. If you give the dog enough proper things to chew they won't be as tempted to chew your furniture and other belongings. Also, we tried to praise him whenever he was playing with his toys. Finally, whenever he wasn't chewing on an appropriate object, (I could always tell because the apartment was eerily quiet), I would grab an appropriate toy, run into the room, clap loudly (to jar his concentration, say no, and replace it with one of his toys.) Usually, I would wait until he started playing with the new toy and then praise him. When you tell a dog what they can't do, it is important to give them things they can.
My Pthalate,, PVC and BPA-Free Puppy
Because I didn't know about these toxins while Denali was a puppy, I didn't avoid most of the toys I now do. Without being assured about the quality of the toy and the materials, I am hesitant to give a young puppy (or even Denali) something like that to chew on and possibly destroy and ingest. Thus, the importance for resilient and healthy toys. Luckily, there are two such big companies, and many other smaller ones specializing in eco-friendly, safe dog toys. I purchased ours from our local pet food store, Sirius Cooks, in Oak Park, IL. But, I've also purchased several from Olive Green Dog and have been super impressed with their service!
Remember, dogs are just as susceptible, if not more, than human children to ingesting the toxins from their toys. I mean, when was the last time a four month old baby successfully destructed a toy with their teeth?
Things to Look for:
-PVC Free: PVC toys often contain lead, cadmium, and organotins. Furthermore, PVC as a gas is a carcinogen.
-BPA-free: BPA is just one of the latest bad guys
-clear plastic- transparent plastic is not the most stable.
Good Companies:
As I have mentioned before, I love West Paw Design and all of their toys. After learning about the dangers of PVC and pthalates, I purged all of Denali's questionable plastic toys (especially the pliable ones) and replaced them with a new set of all of West Paw's. Denali couldn't be happier. His favorite is definitely the Bumi, because of how it whips around.
Planet Dog is also a great company. It also has very high standards, and is very conscientious. Many of their toys are made of recycled content. Denali loved his pink and blue double planet toy, although it was never big enough for him to stuff things in and eat. I'm not sure I would leave it with a puppy again, however after finding some of the continents missing. Luckily, Denali usually spits out the pieces of the toys he chews up or they come out the other end.
The big picture here for me is to avoid what bad things I can for Denali (and any future dogs) in the hopes of extending their short but meaningful lives. If I wouldn't want my kid to play with it, I don't want him to.
Remember, dogs are just as susceptible, if not more, than human children to ingesting the toxins from their toys. I mean, when was the last time a four month old baby successfully destructed a toy with their teeth?
Things to Look for:
-PVC Free: PVC toys often contain lead, cadmium, and organotins. Furthermore, PVC as a gas is a carcinogen.
-BPA-free: BPA is just one of the latest bad guys
-clear plastic- transparent plastic is not the most stable.
Good Companies:
As I have mentioned before, I love West Paw Design and all of their toys. After learning about the dangers of PVC and pthalates, I purged all of Denali's questionable plastic toys (especially the pliable ones) and replaced them with a new set of all of West Paw's. Denali couldn't be happier. His favorite is definitely the Bumi, because of how it whips around.
Planet Dog is also a great company. It also has very high standards, and is very conscientious. Many of their toys are made of recycled content. Denali loved his pink and blue double planet toy, although it was never big enough for him to stuff things in and eat. I'm not sure I would leave it with a puppy again, however after finding some of the continents missing. Luckily, Denali usually spits out the pieces of the toys he chews up or they come out the other end.
The big picture here for me is to avoid what bad things I can for Denali (and any future dogs) in the hopes of extending their short but meaningful lives. If I wouldn't want my kid to play with it, I don't want him to.
Crate Love
Denali loves his crate, and while we always wanted that, we secretly hoped that we would be able to get rid of the ugly thing once he stopped using it. We've finally come to the realization that we will probably always have it in our bedroom (where it always has been), but have decided to try to make our own. We'll be sure to fill you in on how that is going.
But, here are the crates that we are either using or have used in the past: Midwest Canine Camper (our favorite for comfiness) and Midwest iCrate.
We started off with the Midwest's XXL crate because it was the largest crate on the market. We didn't know what kind of chewer Denali would be, so we wanted to make sure to get something super strong. Luckily, I found it on Craigslist for $100 off what it would have cost new. It was great, but it wasn't very comfy for Denali. The metal sides didn't afford him much privacy or a den-like feeling (which is the goal of a crate), so we improvised and draped our handy $7 Ikea fleece blankets over the sides and top creating a blue cave. It worked great, and Denali loved the blankets. He actually turned into quite a decorator, see picture below! The only problem was that it was quite big, so we started it off at half the full size. We also wanted it in our bedroom so we could sleep together as a family (which I think is important for pack mentality). Also, then I could easily hear him in the middle of the night when he needed to go out. But, Denali would toss in his sleep or sometimes stage an all out romp fest about 2am and the wire sides would make quite a racket!
At the same time, we had bought a portable crate for Denali (one that folded flat), so we could have one in Michigan at my parent's beach house (Denali's favorite place in the world aside from the breeder's). When Denali outgrew his wire crate, and we were going to have to make the move to full size, we decided to give the portable crate a try in the house. It was much cozier, with soft sides that he could lean up against (and wouldn't make as much noise), and it was darker. Also, we figured we could just fold it flat if we needed the space suddenly. And so here we are today, still using the soft-sided crate.
Crate Psychology:
While not the most pleasing aesthetically (or good for our small apartment), we think that psychologically it is very important for Denali to feel like he has what he thinks of his own bedroom. He knows it is a safe place, and anytime I am trying to clean his ears or give him a shower, he runs into his crate, which makes me think that he knows it is a safe place. Dogs are den animals and want a cozy,dark place to go to. By putting ours in our bedroom, which is right off the living room, and within eye-view of the door, Denali has a safe place to go to if he is afraid, while still being apprised of the situation.
We did crate train Denali, meaning that when I wasn't home, Denali would get his favorite (most indestructible toys) and a treat to eat (a peanut butter and kibble stuffed kong) to eat on in my absence. It kept him safe from ingesting bad things and kept our apartment intact. While at first he didn't like it, and he had some pretty severe separation anxiety (our neighbors told us he would howl for hours on end, taking a half an hour break), he was always safe from harm. The only real danger of the crate was one day (about a week after we switched from the wire crate to the soft crate), Denali was roughhousing a bit too vigorously and flipped his crate! Luckily, our downstairs neighbor came up and "rescued him". We think this is just one of the many reasons Denali LOVES Jen. Denali was a bit shaken up but he was fine within a couple hours, and he learned not to flip his crate.
Food for thought:
We chose not to feed Denali in his crate, but instead to give him treats. I didn't want the water in his crate to prevent spills, and also be able to monitor how much he was drinking--outside of the crate he always has fresh water. He was never in his crate for more than 3 hours at a time, and then my boyfriend's wonderful mother, would come and walk/ hang out with Denali for a half-hour. We did think it was important though, to give him tasty treats in his crate to associate good feelings with it. It's a choice each person should make for themselves, and this is just what we thought was best for us. Our current vet does not recommend peanut butter for dogs, so with the new puppy (hopefully, we'll get her this spring) we'll have to figure out something else. Also, after learning about pthalates in pliable plastics (like dog toys), I am hesitant to give my puppy a toy like that. Instead, I will just stuff one of West Paw's pthalate free, recycled rubber toys instead. Or if you really want to go far out get your dog a sheep trachea and stuff it with yummy goodies, like green tripe. Now for cleanliness' sake, we chose to skip this after trying it for a week and having to sanitize nonstop. But the cartilage in the trachea is really good for the dog, so maybe its a good thing for him to eat in the kitchen, where I can easily wipe up his mess. We'll have to cross that bridge in the future. But thank goodness our teething days are gone!
But, here are the crates that we are either using or have used in the past: Midwest Canine Camper (our favorite for comfiness) and Midwest iCrate.
We started off with the Midwest's XXL crate because it was the largest crate on the market. We didn't know what kind of chewer Denali would be, so we wanted to make sure to get something super strong. Luckily, I found it on Craigslist for $100 off what it would have cost new. It was great, but it wasn't very comfy for Denali. The metal sides didn't afford him much privacy or a den-like feeling (which is the goal of a crate), so we improvised and draped our handy $7 Ikea fleece blankets over the sides and top creating a blue cave. It worked great, and Denali loved the blankets. He actually turned into quite a decorator, see picture below! The only problem was that it was quite big, so we started it off at half the full size. We also wanted it in our bedroom so we could sleep together as a family (which I think is important for pack mentality). Also, then I could easily hear him in the middle of the night when he needed to go out. But, Denali would toss in his sleep or sometimes stage an all out romp fest about 2am and the wire sides would make quite a racket!
At the same time, we had bought a portable crate for Denali (one that folded flat), so we could have one in Michigan at my parent's beach house (Denali's favorite place in the world aside from the breeder's). When Denali outgrew his wire crate, and we were going to have to make the move to full size, we decided to give the portable crate a try in the house. It was much cozier, with soft sides that he could lean up against (and wouldn't make as much noise), and it was darker. Also, we figured we could just fold it flat if we needed the space suddenly. And so here we are today, still using the soft-sided crate.
Crate Psychology:
While not the most pleasing aesthetically (or good for our small apartment), we think that psychologically it is very important for Denali to feel like he has what he thinks of his own bedroom. He knows it is a safe place, and anytime I am trying to clean his ears or give him a shower, he runs into his crate, which makes me think that he knows it is a safe place. Dogs are den animals and want a cozy,dark place to go to. By putting ours in our bedroom, which is right off the living room, and within eye-view of the door, Denali has a safe place to go to if he is afraid, while still being apprised of the situation.
We did crate train Denali, meaning that when I wasn't home, Denali would get his favorite (most indestructible toys) and a treat to eat (a peanut butter and kibble stuffed kong) to eat on in my absence. It kept him safe from ingesting bad things and kept our apartment intact. While at first he didn't like it, and he had some pretty severe separation anxiety (our neighbors told us he would howl for hours on end, taking a half an hour break), he was always safe from harm. The only real danger of the crate was one day (about a week after we switched from the wire crate to the soft crate), Denali was roughhousing a bit too vigorously and flipped his crate! Luckily, our downstairs neighbor came up and "rescued him". We think this is just one of the many reasons Denali LOVES Jen. Denali was a bit shaken up but he was fine within a couple hours, and he learned not to flip his crate.
Food for thought:
We chose not to feed Denali in his crate, but instead to give him treats. I didn't want the water in his crate to prevent spills, and also be able to monitor how much he was drinking--outside of the crate he always has fresh water. He was never in his crate for more than 3 hours at a time, and then my boyfriend's wonderful mother, would come and walk/ hang out with Denali for a half-hour. We did think it was important though, to give him tasty treats in his crate to associate good feelings with it. It's a choice each person should make for themselves, and this is just what we thought was best for us. Our current vet does not recommend peanut butter for dogs, so with the new puppy (hopefully, we'll get her this spring) we'll have to figure out something else. Also, after learning about pthalates in pliable plastics (like dog toys), I am hesitant to give my puppy a toy like that. Instead, I will just stuff one of West Paw's pthalate free, recycled rubber toys instead. Or if you really want to go far out get your dog a sheep trachea and stuff it with yummy goodies, like green tripe. Now for cleanliness' sake, we chose to skip this after trying it for a week and having to sanitize nonstop. But the cartilage in the trachea is really good for the dog, so maybe its a good thing for him to eat in the kitchen, where I can easily wipe up his mess. We'll have to cross that bridge in the future. But thank goodness our teething days are gone!
Finding a Good Dog Bed
To preface this discussion: I must explain that Denali is usually not allowed on our bed (only when I invite him, and then he is only allowed on top of the duvet cover. He is however, allowed on our couch when there is one of his blankets on it. I do this to keep it clean. Before getting Denali I was a bit neurotic about keeping our couch clean, but I just love being able to cuddle with him on it, so I made a compromise. Denali has about 4 or 5 blankets (2 fleece and 2 matelesse that I purchased from Ikea and TJ Maxx) that I rotate through on a weekly basis. If one blanket gets too dirty (or smells), I just wash it. That way, our couch is always clean, never smells of dog (I hope!!!) and Denali is able to cuddle with me while I watch TV.
Because he is not allowed on our bed on a regular basis, he primarily sleeps in his crate or his new dog bed. After reading a number of books on green living, see references for recommendations, I decided I would spring for a new organic bed for Denali trading in the $12 TJ Maxx one we had been holding onto. The choice to go organic was to avoid the exposure of pesticides, chemicals, and toxins that would usually be found in a fabric. I also wanted the inside to be soft, sustainable, and to not off-gas. Denali loves sleeping and on his days off from daycare he will sleep most of the day, so I thought it was a good place to invest in his health.
After a lot of research for green or eco-friendly dog beds I found an awesome company, West Paw Design. West Paw has stellar customer service, great reviews, offers returning customers discounts on their beds (if they have previously purchased one from them), and great PVC and pthalate-free dog toys which also are guaranteed to last (they will give you a free replacement if the dog destructs the first toy)! It was a bit pricey, at about $195, then an additional $140 for replacement covers (so I can wash them whenever they get dirty and he still has his bed.) But, I couldn't be happier. All of their beds are OEKO-TEK rated safe. And how they are made of recycled plastic bottles. Organic dyes. And another perk, it is made in the USA in the good ol' state of Montana.
They also have several different styles of beds depending on how your dog sleeps. Of course, Denali likes to sleep in three main positions (sprawled, cozy nested, and belly up.) POST PICTURES. So, I got the biggest bed they sold (not custom), and it looks great. We decided on the dark blue color (blueberry) so it camouflages dirt and drool and his fur. He almost blends into it. If you're not set on organic, they have a lot of great striped beds that are super cute!
Now he still sleeps in his crate about half of the time, so we still have that ugly thing in our room, but we found a creative solution a comfy crate pad/ bed. We have the Midwest Canine Camper in the biggest size they sell. See my post on crates here. With these measurements, it was hard to find a bed that fit that was inexpensive. *Note we purchased this before we splurged for the West Paw Design bed--I had originally hoped that we could slowly move the WPD bed into his crate, but he seems to like having the choice of two different locations in our bedroom.
We wanted a washable cover, and a bed for under $40 because we had already gone through three in his puppy stages. We were at Ikea shopping for something else, when we wandered into the baby section. We found the infant crib mattress, and realized that it was practically the same size as Denali's crate. Even better it was $29! And we could get four fitted bottom sheets for $8. Now, Denali has a comfy crate pad (about 3" thick that's sheet I can wash every week or whenever it needs it. For a cheap alternative to a bed that would have fit in his crate, this substitution is awesome! And we saved x amount of money off of one of the beds from Foster & Smith. While it is not organic or sustainable, it is a good solution for now and until it wears out, we think we'll keep it. We figure we might have another puppy along the way in the next year...so we'll have to keep our cheap options handy for crate training.
Because he is not allowed on our bed on a regular basis, he primarily sleeps in his crate or his new dog bed. After reading a number of books on green living, see references for recommendations, I decided I would spring for a new organic bed for Denali trading in the $12 TJ Maxx one we had been holding onto. The choice to go organic was to avoid the exposure of pesticides, chemicals, and toxins that would usually be found in a fabric. I also wanted the inside to be soft, sustainable, and to not off-gas. Denali loves sleeping and on his days off from daycare he will sleep most of the day, so I thought it was a good place to invest in his health.
After a lot of research for green or eco-friendly dog beds I found an awesome company, West Paw Design. West Paw has stellar customer service, great reviews, offers returning customers discounts on their beds (if they have previously purchased one from them), and great PVC and pthalate-free dog toys which also are guaranteed to last (they will give you a free replacement if the dog destructs the first toy)! It was a bit pricey, at about $195, then an additional $140 for replacement covers (so I can wash them whenever they get dirty and he still has his bed.) But, I couldn't be happier. All of their beds are OEKO-TEK rated safe. And how they are made of recycled plastic bottles. Organic dyes. And another perk, it is made in the USA in the good ol' state of Montana.
They also have several different styles of beds depending on how your dog sleeps. Of course, Denali likes to sleep in three main positions (sprawled, cozy nested, and belly up.) POST PICTURES. So, I got the biggest bed they sold (not custom), and it looks great. We decided on the dark blue color (blueberry) so it camouflages dirt and drool and his fur. He almost blends into it. If you're not set on organic, they have a lot of great striped beds that are super cute!
Now he still sleeps in his crate about half of the time, so we still have that ugly thing in our room, but we found a creative solution a comfy crate pad/ bed. We have the Midwest Canine Camper in the biggest size they sell. See my post on crates here. With these measurements, it was hard to find a bed that fit that was inexpensive. *Note we purchased this before we splurged for the West Paw Design bed--I had originally hoped that we could slowly move the WPD bed into his crate, but he seems to like having the choice of two different locations in our bedroom.
We wanted a washable cover, and a bed for under $40 because we had already gone through three in his puppy stages. We were at Ikea shopping for something else, when we wandered into the baby section. We found the infant crib mattress, and realized that it was practically the same size as Denali's crate. Even better it was $29! And we could get four fitted bottom sheets for $8. Now, Denali has a comfy crate pad (about 3" thick that's sheet I can wash every week or whenever it needs it. For a cheap alternative to a bed that would have fit in his crate, this substitution is awesome! And we saved x amount of money off of one of the beds from Foster & Smith. While it is not organic or sustainable, it is a good solution for now and until it wears out, we think we'll keep it. We figure we might have another puppy along the way in the next year...so we'll have to keep our cheap options handy for crate training.
The Scoop on Poop
Consider yourself warned: poop and anal sacs will be discussed below
Having a great dane, I understandably pick up more poop on average than most other dog owners. However, since switching to a mix of grain-free and raw, his poops have been smaller, firmer, and quicker to degrade. Don't mistake me, they are still big and warrant using a large dog poop bags; but, the amount has noticeably decreased, which gets me thinking about how much filler (or undigestable matter) must have been in his kibble to cause him to make so much poop. He's always been on good quality kibble, but not always grain-free. Like humans, the food that we can't digest goes right through us (think about corn kernels), well the same is true with dogs. So, try to avoid foods that have those nasty fillers and you will probably have much less crap to deal with literally.
Baggin' It:
The second topic of this post is to discuss poop bags, and to recommend my favorite: BioBags Large Dog. They are completely compostable (although I wouldn't recommend it), and biodegradable. They are made from non-GMO corn, and are very light. I have not had any problem with them breaking or tearing apart (even when the go through the washer/ dryer,) unlike some cheaper bags that have come straight off the roll. There is nothing worse than picking up poop to begin with, but then to add insult to injury, to have the bag break and to end up with a large amount of poop all over your hands is heinous. That's why I feel that it is worth it to invest a few more dollars in a box of good quality dog poop bags. Furthermore, I feel better about throwing it out when it is in a biodegradable bag. With a big dog, I undoubtedly have a much larger carbon footprint that many other people! So, I think it is best to go green where I can.
While BioBags are my favorite, we have found a cost-effective alternative that is still biodegradable. They have a slightly more narrow diameter, which sometimes proves a bit difficult for the larger piles but overall it is worth the savings. To compare, they are roughly $0.01-$0.04 vs. $0.10 for the BioBags. If we didn't go through so many (at least three a day) I might be able to stomach it, but since it's literally going in the trash, we've chosen to go the cheap route and save the loot for something that isn't thrown away.
Having a great dane, I understandably pick up more poop on average than most other dog owners. However, since switching to a mix of grain-free and raw, his poops have been smaller, firmer, and quicker to degrade. Don't mistake me, they are still big and warrant using a large dog poop bags; but, the amount has noticeably decreased, which gets me thinking about how much filler (or undigestable matter) must have been in his kibble to cause him to make so much poop. He's always been on good quality kibble, but not always grain-free. Like humans, the food that we can't digest goes right through us (think about corn kernels), well the same is true with dogs. So, try to avoid foods that have those nasty fillers and you will probably have much less crap to deal with literally.
Baggin' It:
The second topic of this post is to discuss poop bags, and to recommend my favorite: BioBags Large Dog. They are completely compostable (although I wouldn't recommend it), and biodegradable. They are made from non-GMO corn, and are very light. I have not had any problem with them breaking or tearing apart (even when the go through the washer/ dryer,) unlike some cheaper bags that have come straight off the roll. There is nothing worse than picking up poop to begin with, but then to add insult to injury, to have the bag break and to end up with a large amount of poop all over your hands is heinous. That's why I feel that it is worth it to invest a few more dollars in a box of good quality dog poop bags. Furthermore, I feel better about throwing it out when it is in a biodegradable bag. With a big dog, I undoubtedly have a much larger carbon footprint that many other people! So, I think it is best to go green where I can.
While BioBags are my favorite, we have found a cost-effective alternative that is still biodegradable. They have a slightly more narrow diameter, which sometimes proves a bit difficult for the larger piles but overall it is worth the savings. To compare, they are roughly $0.01-$0.04 vs. $0.10 for the BioBags. If we didn't go through so many (at least three a day) I might be able to stomach it, but since it's literally going in the trash, we've chosen to go the cheap route and save the loot for something that isn't thrown away.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Dry Kibble
Because raw feeding can sometimes be expensive, many people, including us, choose to feed dry kibble. It is convenient, cheap, and mainstream. In our case it is budget that excludes us from going 100% raw because of the amount of food that is needed to feed one great dane, much less two (100-240 lbs of food a month!) If I had my way we would be feeding all raw, here are some of the reasons why.
-Freshness: Like humans, dogs do better with fresh foods. The best source of vitamins and minerals is fresh food that has been unprocessed. If you choose to feed dry kibble, make sure to keep it in a airtight container. See our post on storing the food.
-Processing: Most dog foods are put through a proccess of extrusion. Unfortunately, as with human food, a lot of the vital nutrients are lost in the form of proccessing. Just imagine trying to live on pre-packaged foods.
-Additives: To keep the food stable for a long time, the manufacturers have to add food stabilizers and other additives. If it is possible to avoid this, then why not?
-Complete & Balanced? Most dog foods say on their bag that their food is complete and balanced nutrition for the dog. Why do you think dogs are anymore likely to get complete nutrition through one type of food than you? This is one of the reasons why I try to give our dogs variety.
If you are still set on feeding kibble because of the cost and the ease of use here are some important factors to consider when choosing a quality brand:
1.) Go Grain Free! Grain free is usually superior because it lacks many of the filler ingredients other foods may contain. It may be more expensive per pound, but the dog will eat less of it. Some people have even said that it costs less to feed their dog grain free food because they go through so much less. We go through 6-8 cups of dry kibble per dog in a day versus 10-14 of the regular kind. Many dogs do not tolerate wheat well (like some humans), so it is better to avoid it. Look for gluten free brands. *Gluten is the protein in wheat that many people and dogs cannot tolerate well.
2.) Avoid white potatoes. Sweet potatoes are far superior in their nutritional value (just look how colorful they are)! However, they are more expensive, so many times the bigger companies use white potatoes instead. Try to find a food with sweet potatoes. Unfortunately, most of the companies have switched over to primarily white potatoes instead of sweet for the cost savings. Our food, Orijen, lists white potatoes before sweet which means that it has more white than sweet.
3.) Choose a high protein percentage. Dogs are carnivores and the more meat in the food the better. The first several ingredients ideally should be meat--and no byproducts! The higher the percentage of protein, the tastier the food will likely be. Try to choose a food that at least has 30% protein. Here is a breakdown of some of the top brands and how they compare with each other in terms of protein.
4.) Avoid corn. This is a big filler for pet food companies and dogs usually don't tolerate them well. The pet food companies like corn because it is super cheap, and adds bulk and easy carbohydrates. Remember, that dogs are natural carnivorous scavengers. If it goes through you, it probably goes through your dog.
6.) Pay attention to the news. Listen for big buyouts of your food company. Usually the new buyers will change the formula of the food--often to its detriment, so it may be time to switch.
7.) Buy the smaller bags. The longer the bag is open, the greater the chance of rancidity. Would you want to eat food that has been opened for three weeks? If you still want to buy the big bag, also purchase an airtight food-grade container. I store a weeks worth of food in a smaller container that I keep in the kitchen. I store the rest in an airtight container in our basement. That way the food is only being mixed with new oxygen once a week instead of everyday.
8.) Buy from a pet food store, or at least a pet store. The more knowledgeable the staff, the better. Petco and Petsmart are now starting to carry some better brands, but not the best, and the knowledge of their staff in the food department leaves you wanting. At all costs avoid the grocery store. Note* Whole Foods, I believe does carry Wellness brand which is one of the better mainstream companies. But, don't start there. Go to someone who knows dog food and the pet food industry, only pick it up at WF in a pinch, if you are already set on a certain brand of kibble. Our local dog food store has been invaluable.
With those pointers in mind here are some good dry kibble brands in my experience:
Fromms- from Wisconsin they have several different varieties all very popular
Orijen- grain free, the highest protein percentage I can find for dry kibble. Now a bigger brand that has been lowering its protein percentages and raising their prices, but still the leader. I also like how many flavors they have, so we can rotate the protein source.
Acana- grain free, a more budget friendly version of Orijen. It has slightly lower percentages of protein than Orijen, and is still very good.
Horizon Legacy- grain free, we used to use it but it became harder to find. However it has a good protein percentage and is reasonably priced.
Born Free- recently was recommended to us by the wonderful ladies at our local pet food store. A good value for grain-free.
-Freshness: Like humans, dogs do better with fresh foods. The best source of vitamins and minerals is fresh food that has been unprocessed. If you choose to feed dry kibble, make sure to keep it in a airtight container. See our post on storing the food.
-Processing: Most dog foods are put through a proccess of extrusion. Unfortunately, as with human food, a lot of the vital nutrients are lost in the form of proccessing. Just imagine trying to live on pre-packaged foods.
-Additives: To keep the food stable for a long time, the manufacturers have to add food stabilizers and other additives. If it is possible to avoid this, then why not?
-Complete & Balanced? Most dog foods say on their bag that their food is complete and balanced nutrition for the dog. Why do you think dogs are anymore likely to get complete nutrition through one type of food than you? This is one of the reasons why I try to give our dogs variety.
If you are still set on feeding kibble because of the cost and the ease of use here are some important factors to consider when choosing a quality brand:
1.) Go Grain Free! Grain free is usually superior because it lacks many of the filler ingredients other foods may contain. It may be more expensive per pound, but the dog will eat less of it. Some people have even said that it costs less to feed their dog grain free food because they go through so much less. We go through 6-8 cups of dry kibble per dog in a day versus 10-14 of the regular kind. Many dogs do not tolerate wheat well (like some humans), so it is better to avoid it. Look for gluten free brands. *Gluten is the protein in wheat that many people and dogs cannot tolerate well.
2.) Avoid white potatoes. Sweet potatoes are far superior in their nutritional value (just look how colorful they are)! However, they are more expensive, so many times the bigger companies use white potatoes instead. Try to find a food with sweet potatoes. Unfortunately, most of the companies have switched over to primarily white potatoes instead of sweet for the cost savings. Our food, Orijen, lists white potatoes before sweet which means that it has more white than sweet.
3.) Choose a high protein percentage. Dogs are carnivores and the more meat in the food the better. The first several ingredients ideally should be meat--and no byproducts! The higher the percentage of protein, the tastier the food will likely be. Try to choose a food that at least has 30% protein. Here is a breakdown of some of the top brands and how they compare with each other in terms of protein.
4.) Avoid corn. This is a big filler for pet food companies and dogs usually don't tolerate them well. The pet food companies like corn because it is super cheap, and adds bulk and easy carbohydrates. Remember, that dogs are natural carnivorous scavengers. If it goes through you, it probably goes through your dog.
6.) Pay attention to the news. Listen for big buyouts of your food company. Usually the new buyers will change the formula of the food--often to its detriment, so it may be time to switch.
7.) Buy the smaller bags. The longer the bag is open, the greater the chance of rancidity. Would you want to eat food that has been opened for three weeks? If you still want to buy the big bag, also purchase an airtight food-grade container. I store a weeks worth of food in a smaller container that I keep in the kitchen. I store the rest in an airtight container in our basement. That way the food is only being mixed with new oxygen once a week instead of everyday.
8.) Buy from a pet food store, or at least a pet store. The more knowledgeable the staff, the better. Petco and Petsmart are now starting to carry some better brands, but not the best, and the knowledge of their staff in the food department leaves you wanting. At all costs avoid the grocery store. Note* Whole Foods, I believe does carry Wellness brand which is one of the better mainstream companies. But, don't start there. Go to someone who knows dog food and the pet food industry, only pick it up at WF in a pinch, if you are already set on a certain brand of kibble. Our local dog food store has been invaluable.
With those pointers in mind here are some good dry kibble brands in my experience:
Fromms- from Wisconsin they have several different varieties all very popular
Orijen- grain free, the highest protein percentage I can find for dry kibble. Now a bigger brand that has been lowering its protein percentages and raising their prices, but still the leader. I also like how many flavors they have, so we can rotate the protein source.
Acana- grain free, a more budget friendly version of Orijen. It has slightly lower percentages of protein than Orijen, and is still very good.
Horizon Legacy- grain free, we used to use it but it became harder to find. However it has a good protein percentage and is reasonably priced.
Born Free- recently was recommended to us by the wonderful ladies at our local pet food store. A good value for grain-free.
Our Raw Dog
Raw meat??? Yes, I give my dog raw meat, bones, and vegetables each day--and he loves it! If you asked me a year ago if I would ever feed my dog raw meat I would have told asked you if you were delusional--I never would have invited that much bacteria into my home. But I have been convinced, my reasons for it are tri-fold: the health of my dog, the quality of ingredients, and street cred. No not really--just the first two.
After a year of constant trips to the vet due to diarrhea, we decided to change vets (that's another post,) and have a nutritional consultation. Denali had previously been diagnosed with food allergies to beef, milk, soybean, flaxseed, carrots, peas, and barley. So we were married to only feeding him only kibble. Treats upset his stomach, so we ceased giving him anything but vension treats (100% meat and very expensive.) I was tired of constantly fighting off bouts of diarrhea with him and refilling the antibiotic prescriptions constantly.
Our new vet recommended raw. She explained to us that dog's have a lower pH in their stomach that allows them to kill any bacteria that might find its way into its food. As he was a relatively healthy puppy in her words, he should have no problem transitioning to the raw food diet, and that his problems with diet were most likely due to his processed kibble. Giving a dog food that is in its natural state (raw) is the most beneficial because the nutritional content has not been compromised by processing or cooking. Most kibble is put through an extrusion process where many of the nutrients are eradicated. Furthermore, it is then packaged into a large bag where it will sit until it is distributed, and then sit until it is sold, and then most likely sit in your kitchen/ basement for 3-4 weeks.
Denali's turnaround was nothing short of remarkable. In the six months that we have been on raw, we have not once gone to the vet. He can eat anything we give him, with only the occasional gas. Although it is expensive, the benefits of it outweigh the extra expenses. And we are saving on veterinary costs!
To come to this decision was a big one, and I was desperate for any respite from the diarrhea, but since the switch I couldn't be happier. I have since become more interested in canine nutrition and have read a number of good books on the subject that were recommended to me by our awesome friends at our local dog food store. Thanks Julie and Hattie at Sirius Cooks!
Luckily there are a ton of great raw dog food companies out there. Here are some of our favorites because they use meat from animals not treated with antibiotics or growth hormones.
Stella & Chewys* what we ideally use
Darwin's Foods Naturals- make sure to get the Naturals not Zoologic (b/c Zoologic might contain antibiotics and hormones)
Primal
Bravo
If you are at all interested in learning more about canine nutrition, including the rationale behind a raw food diet take a look at some of these resources:
www.dogaware.com (written by one of the contributors to Whole Dog Journal, focuses on diet)
www.whole-dog-journal.com (great resource, has annual reviews of commercial food)
Your holistic vet--our previous vet recommended Royal Canin which did not fit my criteria
And last but not least, the knowledgeable staff at your local dog food store. We are so lucky to have Sirius Cooks close by, they have been an invaluable resource and are behind this whole thing! Other great resources in the Chicagoland areas are Noah's Ark in Winnetka, Kriser's Foods (multiple locations), and Barker & Meowskys: A Paw Firm in Lincoln Park.
After a year of constant trips to the vet due to diarrhea, we decided to change vets (that's another post,) and have a nutritional consultation. Denali had previously been diagnosed with food allergies to beef, milk, soybean, flaxseed, carrots, peas, and barley. So we were married to only feeding him only kibble. Treats upset his stomach, so we ceased giving him anything but vension treats (100% meat and very expensive.) I was tired of constantly fighting off bouts of diarrhea with him and refilling the antibiotic prescriptions constantly.
Our new vet recommended raw. She explained to us that dog's have a lower pH in their stomach that allows them to kill any bacteria that might find its way into its food. As he was a relatively healthy puppy in her words, he should have no problem transitioning to the raw food diet, and that his problems with diet were most likely due to his processed kibble. Giving a dog food that is in its natural state (raw) is the most beneficial because the nutritional content has not been compromised by processing or cooking. Most kibble is put through an extrusion process where many of the nutrients are eradicated. Furthermore, it is then packaged into a large bag where it will sit until it is distributed, and then sit until it is sold, and then most likely sit in your kitchen/ basement for 3-4 weeks.
Denali's turnaround was nothing short of remarkable. In the six months that we have been on raw, we have not once gone to the vet. He can eat anything we give him, with only the occasional gas. Although it is expensive, the benefits of it outweigh the extra expenses. And we are saving on veterinary costs!
To come to this decision was a big one, and I was desperate for any respite from the diarrhea, but since the switch I couldn't be happier. I have since become more interested in canine nutrition and have read a number of good books on the subject that were recommended to me by our awesome friends at our local dog food store. Thanks Julie and Hattie at Sirius Cooks!
Luckily there are a ton of great raw dog food companies out there. Here are some of our favorites because they use meat from animals not treated with antibiotics or growth hormones.
Stella & Chewys* what we ideally use
Darwin's Foods Naturals- make sure to get the Naturals not Zoologic (b/c Zoologic might contain antibiotics and hormones)
Primal
Bravo
If you are at all interested in learning more about canine nutrition, including the rationale behind a raw food diet take a look at some of these resources:
www.dogaware.com (written by one of the contributors to Whole Dog Journal, focuses on diet)
www.whole-dog-journal.com (great resource, has annual reviews of commercial food)
Your holistic vet--our previous vet recommended Royal Canin which did not fit my criteria
And last but not least, the knowledgeable staff at your local dog food store. We are so lucky to have Sirius Cooks close by, they have been an invaluable resource and are behind this whole thing! Other great resources in the Chicagoland areas are Noah's Ark in Winnetka, Kriser's Foods (multiple locations), and Barker & Meowskys: A Paw Firm in Lincoln Park.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)